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20vcqdriver 10-05-09 08:52 AM

turbo and smoke issue yet again
 
Not sure if its a coincidence, but ever since refurbing my turbo and fitting charge cooler I have had the engine jumping to limp mode at full throttle with anything over 4000rpm ish showing and the first refurb lasted 100miles before smoking like an old steam engine. Had it refurbed again under warranty and it was still jumping to limp mode but at least managed to pass MOT yesterday first time (emmisions 137HC and 0.56CO). Went to take my son to Chester and it has starting smoking (only slightly so far) again after just 60miles use, :shake: this despite the fact I changed the oil to Silkolene 5W40 as they said it could be an oil issue. Could changing to the 5w50 silkolene stop this? Also been suggested that it could be the exhaust as still on the 7A stainless system whilst I save up for the 2.75" version. Getting ECU codes read next week but any help /advice appreciated.
Anyone upgraded to a different turbo and got a serviceable K24 I could have?!!
If this keeps up I'll be getting rid of the heap of junk as patience running out as well as funds...:sad:
__________________

slacky 10-05-09 09:24 AM

come on dave mate :tup: , i'm sure you've had worse problems in the 10 years of renovation & perfection , take a big deep breath and carry on ;)

ask grizz if he's got any turbo's available
or try s2 forum

quattrokid 10-05-09 09:40 AM

I have a spare turbo

http://www.classic-audi.co.uk/forum/...ead.php?t=4101

could this be of use to you?

Woodsman 10-05-09 10:52 AM

20vcqdriver, how far have you driven and how hard since replacing the turbo last?
The reason I ask is that you may still have oil in the exhaust from the previous failure.
It can be a right bugger to get rid of, sometimes just a case of wait till the smoke stops, in other cases I have found that drilling a tiny drain hole in each box is a cheaper option than a new zorst.

Did you clean out your chargecooler, Intake and breather pipework? Oil getting into the cylinders lowers the octane of your fuel and causes detonation. Which the ECU will hear via the knock sensor(s) and go to limp home mode to protect your engine.

IMHO turbo failure does not usually cause engine managment problems until it is bad enough to do one of the following,

1; pass enough oil on inlet side to cause detonation as above (often pass most oil straight down the zorst)

2; oil up the plugs causing a misfire

3; oil up the lambda sensor

4; be such a bad air leak between the crankcase and intake tract, that MAF calculations go haywire.

In all the above cases vehicle will be smoking so bad that problem is obviously turbo rather than an engine managment issue.

Don't stress over the turbo until you have pulled the fault codes.

sorry to babble on, hope this helps.

Peter

20vcqdriver 10-05-09 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slacky (Post 54003)
come on dave mate :tup: , i'm sure you've had worse problems in the 10 years of renovation & perfection , take a big deep breath and carry on ;)

ask grizz if he's got any turbo's available
or try s2 forum

Quote:

Originally Posted by quattrokid (Post 54004)
I have a spare turbo

http://www.classic-audi.co.uk/forum/...ead.php?t=4101

could this be of use to you?

Chris, Issue is that car is now taxed and should be enjoying driving it, not sat in the garage not daring to drive it in case something terminal occurs, did not expect to have to be stripping the thing down again. Have cancelled all holiday ideas for this year too due to work issues, so if Lynn found I had to spend money on the car she would force me to sell it anyway....

The 3B engine uses a KKK24 so need to be 100% sure the Garrett is a direct replacement as need a direct comparison to aid fault finding. Hopefully fault codes will give some idea though they can be a bit general sometimes still leaving one of many options to trace.

If it's anything other than the turbo which is still under warranty it will have to go as better to let someone with the money to get it right have it than just sat in my garage doing nothing for years, which is what will happen if it needs a new bottom end... It has been lack of funds that is the reason it has taken 13years to get to this stage.. And now Lynn's patience is running out too :rolleyes:...

20vcqdriver 10-05-09 12:58 PM

-The inlet side is perfectly clean and oil free since disconnecting the pipe from the crankcase and feeding it to a catch tank instead last year. So far turbo seals only failing on hot side keeping inlet side clean.
-Only ever cuts to limp at WOT when the lambda is not in the equation so not this.

Let you know what the codes are after I've seen Tim on Tuesday. Fingers and toes crossed for a cheap fix.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woodsman (Post 54009)
20vcqdriver, how far have you driven and how hard since replacing the turbo last?
The reason I ask is that you may still have oil in the exhaust from the previous failure.
It can be a right bugger to get rid of, sometimes just a case of wait till the smoke stops, in other cases I have found that drilling a tiny drain hole in each box is a cheaper option than a new zorst.

Did you clean out your chargecooler, Intake and breather pipework? Oil getting into the cylinders lowers the octane of your fuel and causes detonation. Which the ECU will hear via the knock sensor(s) and go to limp home mode to protect your engine.

IMHO turbo failure does not usually cause engine managment problems until it is bad enough to do one of the following,

1; pass enough oil on inlet side to cause detonation as above (often pass most oil straight down the zorst)

2; oil up the plugs causing a misfire

3; oil up the lambda sensor

4; be such a bad air leak between the crankcase and intake tract, that MAF calculations go haywire.

In all the above cases vehicle will be smoking so bad that problem is obviously turbo rather than an engine managment issue.

Don't stress over the turbo until you have pulled the fault codes.

sorry to babble on, hope this helps.

Peter


kerker21 10-05-09 03:52 PM

have you let the battery go flat old bean as that can cause 20v problems with the ecu as flat for a long time wipes memory and charging and useing again will start the ecu chasing none existant faults again , maks sure all intake sensors are clean as a whistle , the smoking will most prob be oil in exhaust it can linger for weeks as woody said drill drain holes in boxes to alow presure to blow it out you can always poprivit them shut latter

john...:tup:

stuartmmcfc 10-05-09 04:04 PM

no idea if this is the cause of your problems but oil really does linger. I remember when I had a load of work done to the turbo and the amount of smoke that came out for some time really made me think we'd scewed things up big time.
good luck and I'll keep my fingers crossed its nothing serious

20vcqdriver 10-05-09 05:26 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by kerker21 (Post 54023)
have you let the battery go flat old bean as that can cause 20v problems with the ecu as flat for a long time wipes memory and charging and useing again will start the ecu chasing none existant faults again , maks sure all intake sensors are clean as a whistle , the smoking will most prob be oil in exhaust it can linger for weeks as woody said drill drain holes in boxes to alow presure to blow it out you can always poprivit them shut latter

john...:tup:

I have 2 ECU's here. One with the standard chips and one with the uprated MAP sensor and 1.4bar chip set to match the charge cooler charatcteristics. They both do exactly the same thing whether left connected for 60miles or not. Hopefully I can get it to Tims and its a simple sensor fault though since I have replaced all sensors now it is unlikely.
Like to think its oil in the exhaust too but the downpipe although black from the refurb turbo failure showed no oiley stains where oil might have run down unlike the outside of the turbo.(see attached), Also only get the smoke on applying power after standing for 10mins or so or had it once after backing off during an overtake manoeuvre. Very inconsistent at moment.

20vcqdriver 12-05-09 04:42 PM

No codes but in limp mode
 
Things seem to be going from bad to worse.
Just had the codes read on my 3B. Only came up with G28 intermittent fault and G80 carbon canister recirc valve (which I never connected or used during the conversion). No errors regarding boost or why it trips to limp mode.
Reset the faults whilst engine running and shot off down the road, straight into limp mode so kept it running and connected VAG-COM, No errors at all...HELP!!! Clamped the hose to the wastegate and I shot off down the road again. over 1 bar straight away but no overboost codes on returning. Baffled. Turbo seems to be passing oil again too as its getting worse, Doh!:wall:


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