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Best oil for 90k 1.8 DZ
My 80 Sport has done more than 85k and less than 90k cannot remember exact figure.. anyway its in the garage at the moment as I was getting more and more concerned about the camshaft oil seal, so I gave it to a mechanic i trust with all parts such as camshaft & crankshaft seals, sump gasket, rocket gover gasket set, timing belt kit, water pump, & full service kit.
The timing belt and water pump are being done as precautionery items, I do not know when they were changed although working fine and loosing no water I rather have a piece of mind and just change them! :tup: BTW I would always go for SKF timing belt kits as they come with new tensioner screws, dampers & new bolts, which the Continental ones never include!! Whilst i am having all this work done I told the mechanic to flush the engine and cooling system as well, whats the best oil going to be for this engine at this kind of mileage, also what is the reconmended coolant on this? |
use semi synthetic 15w40 its good for oil pressure, try not to go over 3000 rpm while engine is cold...let it warm up first, as for coolant 50/50 mix should be fine, i personally
wouldnt use an engine flush again, change the oil regularly |
Pretty much anything from a reputable manufacturer that's the right weight according to the owner's handbook and cheap enough to change frequently.
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As already said semi synthetic is fine, I would go 10w-40 over 15w-40 for better cold start flow, important this time of year.
Cheers Guy |
I've been using fully synthetic 5w40 in my 1.8DZ for some years now. it's done about 145k. seems to like it. oil doesn't get dirty at all, starts fine in -10C & engine warms up quick.
I know it's wrong, but have been using tesco oil which was £10/2 litres i.e. £20 per full oil change & leaving 1 litre for top up if necessary. budget issue for me - Halfrauds synthetic 5w40 (which I used to use) is about £36 for 5 litres now & haven't been convinced that Halfraud's own brand is worth paying £16 more for an oil change any thoughts on this ? I know that lots of you are well up on your lubricants :lol: am I risking anything by running fully synthetic 5w40 in a 22 year old motor ? haynes manual suggests 15w50 or 20w50. & as for the fact that it's tesco own brand, can this really be any worse than Halfrauds own brand ? |
5w-40 is a good choice. The only disadvantages with a 5w-40 is that it may be a bit rattly when cold if the engine is worn and the car may use a drop of oil. If it doesn't, then stick with the 5w-40, it gives much better protection than a mineral 20w-50.
Tesco (and all other own brand oils, including Halfords) are very basic. Oil manufacturers bid for the contract, meaning the lowest bidder gets the deal and the oil is made to the lowest spec available (more basic basestock, lower quality additive package). Proper branded oil costs more for a reason, not just a name on the label. Saying that, even a basic synthetic like the Tesco one is a better option than a mineral oil. Cheers Tim |
Rather than start another thread I'll put this here.
I want to do a complete fluid change on the 100 GL. The manual gives the following info. Engine - multi-grade 20w/50 (Castrol GTX) Automatic Transmission - Dexron type fluid (Castrol TQ Dexron O) Final Drive - Very light bodied extreme pressure gear oil SAE 90 EP (Castrol Hypoy B) What are the modern equivalents of these? should I use synthetic oil? Thanks. Daniel |
www.millersoils.net would be your best bet
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I use Valvoline 10/40 semi synthetic in the 200. Its done 181k now, but as its not too expensive to change I do the oil and filters every 3k with a flush every time. The engine seems fine with that. Regular changes seem to be the key to engine longevity rather than more expensive oil.
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Quote:
I would use a 10w-40 in the engine. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-657-10w-40.aspx The best ones are the Gulf Competition, Motul 300V, Redline and Millers CFS. As a cheaper alternative the Fuchs XTR, Motul 6100 and Millers XSS are good choices. These are good choices for the autobox http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-768-dexron-ii.aspx http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-771-dexron-iii.aspx The Fuchs ATF 3000 is the basic choice (but still not a bad oil) and something like the Amsoil ATF, Redline D4, Fuchs ATF5005 or 4400 are the top choices for it. I would use a 75w-90 in the diff http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90.aspx The Fuchs Syn 5, Redline GL5, Fuchs Sintofluid, Gulf and Millers CRX are the top choices, Fuchs Gear Syn is the basic option. Synthetic oils give better protection and are more durable than mineral (including semi-synthetic) oils. Cheers Tim |
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