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-   -   Outer cv joint replacement on my 80 (http://www.classic-audi.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=36743)

Gmac 17-03-17 11:00 AM

Outer cv joint replacement on my 80
 
Going to tackle this job soon as i've got a slight ticking on full lock. Any 'How to' on this? Can't find anything using the search function.

Any hints and tips would be good, tools out of the ordinary that may be required!:tup:]

A "how to" on page 2 now!

Very similar process as to how John recommends below, thanks John!

John. 17-03-17 11:33 AM

Slacken wheel bolts.
Loosen hub bolt.
Jack up car.
Remove wheel.
Loosen hub bolt a bit more.
Remove bottom ball joint bolt.
Tap down susp arm to free ball-joint.
Give hub bolt a tap to see that CV joint moves back on hub splines.....hopefully it does so remove hub bolt.
Pull hub assembly out so as to free CV joint from hub.
Free CV boot so it can be moved along drive-shaft.
Tap off CV joint.

Reassembly should hopefully be reversal of removal?! You may or may not want to replace the circlip on the shaft?
I've just done the above last week on tdi, took 30 mins max but all went to plan.:hmmm:
Torque hub bolt to FT Nms!

:tup:

urquattr085 17-03-17 11:42 AM

I concur with the above, nice summary John.
Only trouble I have had is getting the joint off the shaft, ended up removing the shaft to get a better swing at it.

Good to see I'm not the only one using the FT Index. !!!!! :tup:

John. 17-03-17 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by urquattr085 (Post 424426)
I concur with the above, nice summary John.
Only trouble I have had is getting the joint off the shaft, ended up removing the shaft to get a better swing at it.

Good to see I'm not the only one using the FT Index. !!!!! :tup:

:tup:

vorsprung durch technik 17-03-17 02:05 PM

I've never done one but could have saved a fortune over the last 10 years if i had attempted it.

Nice write up John. Do the CV joints just tap of the driveshaft that easily? Does the circle need removing first?

Sie! 17-03-17 02:19 PM

Buy a good quality joint, I've had both the generic ones from GSF & ECP fail on me in the past after about 10k each... only other tool I needed was circlip pliers.

It's an easy enough job though, you'll be fine:tup:

Andy10v 17-03-17 02:51 PM

It can be a 20 min or 2 hour job, just depends how everything comes off.

Common snags are

Ball joint can be seized into the upright.
CV joint can be stuck on the drive shaft.

Driveshaft bolt is 200NM+90*

Worth checking if you need a socket or a 17mm allen key bit for the driveshaft bolt.

You can also thread the bolt back in to the CV joint, it bottoms out on the end of the driveshaft and will push the CV joint off the shaft.

You are supposed to replaced the circlip on the driveshaft, normally still works without replacing it.

Mike has a guide with pictures;

http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articl...ot_replace.htm

mikes2 17-03-17 04:31 PM

I almost always remove the drive shaft off the car now to do these.

You should get a replacement snap ring in the kit. It's not really a circlip but it's an always replace item.

As Andy has hinted, you can use the old bolt to push the cv joint off the splines or you can just hit it with a copper mallet.

Think the lesser 80s use the 14mm driveshaft bolt so that will be a 24mm socket or a 14mm allen key fitment on the new bolt. Not sure of the torque on the M14 - think it's 120 Nm + 90 degrees.

Val 17-03-17 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy10v (Post 424435)
You can also thread the bolt back in to the CV joint, it bottoms out on the end of the driveshaft and will push the CV joint off the shaft.

+++++

Gmac 17-03-17 09:37 PM

Wow, fantastic response guys... Should manage this no probs after all the helpful pointers!!

Thanks heaps...looking forward to getting stuck in:tup:

John. 17-03-17 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vorsprung durch technik (Post 424432)
Do the CV joints just tap of the driveshaft that easily? Does the circle need removing first?

Yes, sharp tap with hammer should see it come off.......and I always take the circle off first, I call it the wheel though?!:smilewinkgrin:

:tup:

sinbin5t 17-03-17 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John. (Post 424468)
I always take the circle off first, I call it the wheel though?!:smilewinkgrin:

:tup:


You've just been Vipered Gmac

:lol::lol::lol:

:tup:

vorsprung durch technik 17-03-17 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sinbin5t (Post 424471)
You've just been Vipered Gmac

:lol::lol::lol:

:tup:

Didn't you mean Bruce that i've been vipered. Told you he strikes like a snake thats not eaten for a month.:lol:

:tup:

vorsprung durch technik 17-03-17 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John. (Post 424468)
Yes, sharp tap with hammer should see it come off.......and I always take the circle off first, I call it the wheel though?!:smilewinkgrin:

:tup:

Just a typo old bean,when i'm replying to something, really important, i give it proper attention other wise i just type super fast and post. :smilewinkgrin:

:tup:

sinbin5t 17-03-17 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vorsprung durch technik (Post 424472)
Didn't you mean Bruce that i've been vipered. Told you he strikes like a snake thats not eaten for a month.:lol:

:tup:


:lol::lol::lol: he will get his own back now :lol::lol::lol:

Gmac 30-03-17 07:50 PM

Hopefully this helps someone as i couldn’t find anything on here when i searched..

I’ve now replaced the outer cv joints and also the front wheel bearings too. Good news is that the droning from the front right has now gone, new wheel bearings, and the clicking on full steering lock has also gone. At the same time a dropped the suspension on drivers side a little to the same as the nearside and the car has stoped pulling to the left.

Here’s a basic “how to” for the cv joints. Wheel bearings i took to a friends and he pressed them out, certainly a bit of a knack to it. Anyway..

Tools i used/needed

Large breaker bar
Impact wrench
24mm, 22mm, 21mm, 17mm sockets
Smaller wrench
hammer
something to tie the callipers up
spanners, 17, 16,
Philips screwdriver and small flat head screwdriver
tile nips, or crimper tool for boot clips
Lots of wrags! I had a blue pair towel roll

and perhaps..
Penetrating fluid and copper grease


With the car still on the ground…

Remove hub cap
Slacken axle bolt (24mm)
Slacken wheel bolts (17mm)

Raise car off ground..
remove wheel bolts
Wheel off
undo lower suspension bolt at the bottom of the strut, not sure of its proper name (16mm one end and 17mm the other!) I had to then use a hammer to tap it out, one side was a fair bit stiffer than the other..
Remove calliper/carrier (17mm) and tie up out of the way, careful not to distort the brake hose
remove disc
whack down on the lower wish bone to remove from hub
remove axle/hub bolt completely (24mm)
Pull, whack the hub away from the car to remove the hub from cv joint/drive shaft
Cut off the surclip from the small end of the cv boot, i used the small flat head screwdriver to help.
Then put the used axle bolt back in to the cv joint off the drive spline and tighten it up by hand and then the 24mm socket, this will pull the cv joint off the spline. Take note of the way the two small washer type things are sensed, you’ll need to put new ones on the same way!
Cut off the large surclip from the cv boot, again using the small flat head screwdriver.
Lay out some paper towel roll and have some handy..
Put new cv joint grease in to new cv joint.
My surclips came flat so a used a random tool to round the surclip roughly to size before putting to use..
Put small surclip on drive shaft
Put new boot on drive shaft, needed a bit of help from the small flat head screwdriver to get it over the notch on the spline
Put two small washer type things on drive shaft, in correct sense
Don’t remove the small clip holding the cv joint in place, leave the old on there and don’t use a new one. You’ll not be able to get the new one to seat properly, i tried on the first side and really couldn’t get it to sit nicely as it deforms when putting it on, and you can’t squeeze it enough once its on to get it to the correct size. ( took knows how they are put on there in the firs place?)
Put cv joint on spline, might need tapped on (put the old axle bolt on and tap that)
Clip the boot on in correct position x 2 (i used tile snips), Take your time and get this step correct!
Put joint back in hub
Knock lower wishbone back in
Replace lower bolt, this it the one with a 16mm head and a 17mm nut!
Put in axle bolt but don’t fully tighten, just hand tight will do for now
Put disc and calliper back on
Put wheel back on
Lower car
Tighten axle bolt to 200nm

Thats how to do the cv joints, I took the hub off whilst doing this which is basically

Unplug abs cable in the engine bay and feed through the wheel arch (easier than removing the abs sensor at hub), then unclip the wire in three places
Remove two bolts from strut (21mm on one side and 22mm on the other)
Knock out the hub.
Take hub to someone with a press
Press out old bearing
Press in new bearing in correct sense
Put hub back on car
Put abs cable back in through the wheel arch and plug back in

Some pics… forgot to take more..


disc and calliper off and out the way..
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...4.jpg~original

The abs plug on the offside, this is after I’ve moved the expansion tank out the way..
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...u.jpg~original

This is the grommet and cable on the wheel arch side having been pulled through..
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...d.jpg~original

Old cv joint off…
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...s.jpg~original

I had the hub swung up out the way to make it easier to get the new cv joint on..
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...0.jpg~original

hub now off…
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...y.jpg~original

New cv joint to put on…not greased up yet..
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...r.jpg~original

and on..
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...v.jpg~original

The press for the bearings on action!..
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...t.jpg~original


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