Electric to Manual Window Conversion on 1984 Coupe GT
 

Has anyone ever changed from electric to manually operated windows ? If so, I'd be extremely grateful for some pointers as my old green machine has one non-operational side window with the other intermittent. Replacement electric mechanisms are scarce so I was wondering how I could go about this modification.

If you really want to it's as simple as swapping the window mechanisms over and drill a hole in the door card.

Replacement mechanisms or replacement car? :idea: Even if we would presume that your mechanisms aren't repairable [which isn't true], how do you know that the problem isn't in wiring, for example, broken wires between doors and car?

Electric Windows - back on the case .....
 

Back on the case now that she's operational again - electric windows: can anyone out there point me at a pair of re-conditioned control units OR a set of parts to convert them both to manual operation ? Obviously, I'd like to stick to electric if possible.

What's wrong with your current one? Not working at all? Window cable broken? Plastic parts at the end of cables broken?

Window mechanisms are rather easy to work on, just needs some basic tools, angle grinder and electric drill. As long as those two plastic parts are fine, repair costs are pennies, if at all, if they are broken, then some mechanism has to be cannibalized for parts.

Last year I made one power window mechanism for my mk2 golf from original manual + B3 audi window motor [basically the same thing as should be in golf] - just one, because I'm too lazy to finish my power window conversion :lol:

Passenger side is sluggish / intermittent - I try not to open it in case it doesn't close again.

Driver's side doesn't move at all - voltmeter reading dips with button depression so assuming presence of a motor winding but jammed mechanism.

Electric to Manual Window Conversion on 1984 Coupe GT
 

Bad electrical connections can result in sufficient resistance in the connection that will result in an electrical load without the motor turning.
Damage caused by body shops (one bunch literally chopped through the cables in my quattro to replace a door, and used badly crimped bullet crimps.)

Badly reconnected connectors- some multipin connectors have moisture seals which make pushing the connectors together difficult. Some have removed the seal, thus allowing moisture and corrosion on the pins. Simple Verdigris affecting the connections.

Motor jammed? Again, moisture could affect the internals of the motor. It's far from unheard of, and may simply require opening the motor case, cleaning it all up/servicing.

Cable spool/pulley damaged/cable jumped? The system works on a cable being wound around a loop. There is what looks like a plastic spider as part of the 'gearbox' attached to the motor. The spider can crack with age, causing the mechanism to bind when the motor applies tension.

If you have evidence of an electrical load, then it really is worth looking at the mechanism more closely before abandoning it.

A little pic-https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fcf34a66c9.jpg

Yes, could simply be the mechanism.

For what it's worth, try spraying the mechanism with electrical contact cleaner solution.

A good liberal saturation and leave to soak, then see how they perform. Worked for me.:tup:

Just remove both mechanisms and take them apart. It's a very simple thing - few bolts are holding reductor together, either phillips head bolts, or torx bolts, and two are holding motor casing to the reductor. Inside of the reductor you'll likely found some old grease with consistency of a glue - inside motor, probably some rust. After greasing, putting it together, it will be a bit tricky to put cable and it's roller back, as the cable has to be preloaded [both springs are in compressed state] ; I usually put one side in place and use small wrench to force the other spring in place, the room allows this. If you, upon disassembly/removal find broken white plastic bits that are at the end of springs, or broken cable, then it needs to be repaired.

You have nothing to lose anyway; some stick will keep window in place just as well as broken mechanism... :lol:

Many thanks for all of the advice (more than one source) on this subject. I've got the regulators out and am building up the courage to start dismantling (week-end task). Wish me luck ......

I've just used a B3 80 / 90 window motor on my B2 90 - goes straight on if you have motor issues. The motors are handed the same, so for a driver's side you'd need a B3 driver's side. The B3 regulator is similar but doesn't bolt up to the inside of the B2 door, although the cables look the same when it's all stripped down - so might provide useful spare parts.

OK, passenger side window regulator is now stripped, cleaned, re-built, and lubricated/greased. It works perfectly on the bench so I'm a happier chap regards this. All pointers provided (above) have been marvellous - thanks !

However, the driver's side unit appears to have an open circuit motor winding. So far, I've been unable to free the motor from the rest of the mechanics - the end of the shaft gets stuck at the end. Any pointers ? Also, does anyone have a suitable replacement motor I could take off their hands (at an agreed price of course) ?

Sound advice from chalkyh (above). I located a suitable Mk II Coupe's window regulator on ebay.de and took the plunge. Having once been a passenger side window motor on Germany, it is soon to be a driver's side motor on my Mk I coupe. I've already made the motor swap and rebuilt, greased, etc. and it works perfectly. I just need to change to the older style quick-connect and fit it back into the car.

Progress, well done !

:tup:

electric window units for coupe 1980/91 HELP
 

hi has anyone got the part numbers [ OR HELP ] of the electric window motor complete unit for the gt . I have recently purchased a pair for my 1984 gt part number 855837398B ? on o/s unit , not sure if that's the part number for the whole unit or just part of it . I have spent several hrs trying to fit them but after bolting in the up write slider to bottom of door and two bolts to top , then I just can not make the motor with the 3 studs reach the bolt holes in the door , its almost as if the cables are to short . the person the sold me these asures me they came straight out of a gt [he has even shown me pics and filmed them before removal ] and said 100% they are not from any other car like a 4door saloon . I have no reason to doubt him . but what the hell am I doing wrong , they just seem to short . even a windscreen fitter [friend] took one look and said they are not write units

electric window info req / audi coupe 1984
 

has anyone on here got a complete electric motor with cables , out of a car that they can take a picture of or even just measure cable lengths , as I just cant get a set to fit which I recently bought , the cables seem to be to short

Part number is correct, but for cars from VIN number F 85-E-090 680 onwards - unfortunately I have no ETKA, so I cannot see when that VIN happened.

ok as far as I know the electric widow unit fitment is the same on all the b2 coupes , unless someone knows different ?? just seems that my cables are to short for the motor to bolt into its 3 bolt holes located on the door ?

I've got a spare I'm about to go and retrieve - unfortunately I need it myself, but I can measure for you if you want....

cool that would be great just need the measurement from main rail slider ,halfway down it , across to the motor at a set point to see if mine are correct or not

good news , solved porblem
 

Thanks to anda for sending measurements of the motors incl cables from side to side , mine where the same so I knew for sure I had the correct coupe units , so took a look at my inner door skin and compared a pic from the sellers /donor car . the bolt fixings for the up down rail at the top on my door skin there are only 4 holes [only two are used for the rail ]but on donor car [ both 1984 coupe gts ] there are two sets of 4 ,with a longer re-cess for the extra 4 holes , which tilts the rail more upwrite , so tmrw I will drill the extra holes req , may need to fit some small spacers due to my doors not having the longer re-cess , but pretty sure it will work , hopefully will update after

Glad I could help ray:tup: