86 Audi Coupe Oil Grade??
 

Hi, I'm hoping to get a little advice here and hopefully not open a can of worms. Normally on a car forum when someone asks about oil it all kicks off! Hopefully I won't start WW3 before Mr Trump :crazy:

Anyway I'm planning on doing an oil change on Dad's Audi Coupe, but I don't know what type of oil to get for it. I've no idea what is in it right now, although I do know it was changed on a regular basis by the previous owner.

From what I can see 15/40 seems to be acceptable for use in the car, but I'm unsure if that's mineral or synthetic. :confused:

Also does anyone have a part number for an oil filter?

I'm getting the car on the ramp on Thursday where I'm planning on doing a few little jobs, I'd like to do the oil change at the same time.

The car is a 1986 B2 Coupe 2.0 5 Cylinder.

Thanks! :tup:

I love the old debates on oil. They usually lose the will to read on within a few posts.

For what it's worth-
I've got a 1985 quattro. It's been on a diet of magnatec since 1998. Usually the fully synthetic C3 variety, but not comprehensively. It's still running the untouched bottom end and original turbo, and 190k miles. Around 5-8k miles between changes.

I wouldn't get overly bogged down. A decent brand oil. Semi-synthetic or synthetic. 5-30, 10-40.

Castrol Magnatec, shell helix (another regular oil in one of my cars)

Original spec oil in the 80's would have been mineral or semi synthetic to VW 500 00, typically this would have been a 10-40, 20-50 or possibly 15-50, I ran our 1988 B3 coupe with the KV engine (yes it was a 1988 registered B3 not B2) on mineral oil initially and switched to semi synthetic in the mid 90's when it became cheaper.

We had it from when it was 4 years old in 1993 to 17 year old in 2006 and it ran from 80,000 to 165,000 miles in that time. Never burnt much oil (all engines burn some) and personally I prefer to run a thicker oil in my cars so would not drop below 10-40 in an older engine. Just buy a good spec semi synthetic 10 or 15-40 should be fine.

Interesting when the right hand drive UR came out with the WR engine that Audi specified HD oil to SE or SF API system and it could use single, multi and improved lubricity oils of the quality specified by us. So it was quite acceptable according to the handbook to run it on non synthetic oil and still be approved by Audi (but who did that in 1982) !

It's always a bit mad how an oil thread can descend into chaos quickly. There are regularly hige debates and fights on the Jaguar forum I'm part of over oil. So many people fight for their chosen brand as if it's life or death.

Personally I will normally use what the car specifies, but I want to be sure with the Audi because it didn't specify either.

I'm able to get 5 litres of mineral 15/40 or Semi Synthetic for £15 each. So I'll probably go for the Semi based on what I've been told so far.

As far as oil filters go, I'm offered two types when going on sites such as Euro car Parts, Halfords and others. Is there a difference?

If its a 5 cylinder then use a Mann 719/5 filter, Mann were the original suppliers to Audi when these cars were new, the 719/5 fits most of the Audi engines made during the 80s and 90s and its a good known brand and usually cheap.

Around a fiver delivered from CP4L (euro car parts cheaper company) on ebay

http://content5-foto.inbox.lv/albums...nieki/ella.jpg

The specification for 80's engines looks like this. Temperatures, obviously, are ambient temperatures.

I personally use 5w40 synthetic, not only because I live in a place that theoretically could have lower temperatures than island of Great Britain, but also because I'm suspicious about half synthetic oils, because what usually I see - synthetic oil - clean engine, semi synthetic oil - surfaces that sometimes contact oil, are covered with black sludge... Is that due to semi synthetic oil decomposing, or due to not enough frequent changes, I don't know, but so far I haven't seen such a thing for a synthetic. Synthetic, on the other hand, cleans such crap out of engine [so seals must be good - old sludge sealing old seals will eventually be washed out and leak will develop] - engine of my mk2 golf used to be black inside, so far it's second oil in it after engine swap and it quite quickly turned black:rolleyes: , and also starting in low temperatures is improved and it's better for engine to have more oil flow when cold. I chose cheap synthetic from a drum, because engine is simple, no turbo, and that oil likely exceeds needed specification, my usual driving gives low thermal load to oil [I rarely exceed 105c oil temperature] and it's quite wasteful every time to throw away empty oil container, when you can use one you already have...

I don't believe you can go wrong with Castrol Magnatec 10w40 part synthetic.

Usually retails for around £25 for 4 litres. I've found ASDA often sells it for around £19.99.

Regarding the oil filter, I agree with quattrodave.

:tup:

IronJaw, does your avatar have something to do with Formula 1?

It looks familiar.

:idea:

I find oil threads laughable, it's almost as if some people can't read or keep up with the pace of change and better technology. New engine build tolerances have been far better for years hence why Audi have specified for all their older cars, well when they were new 25 years ago when i first became familiar with them and they used a 10/40.

Mineral oil is old technology breaks down very very quickly even if you hardly use the car hence why manufacturers by the nineties were using fully synthetics. Audi used in my old 1994 80 2.6 avant Shell Helix 10/40 from brand new and it got that right up to 148,000 miles at the correct 10k limit or sooner and when i sold it, engine stiil super quick used virtually no oil and still super smooth.

If i were you, instead of listening to a load of differing suggestions as to what oil to use why don't you just ask Audi? If it's good enough for them when they had to give a warranty on it,............it should be good enough for you! Works for me in 20 years of Audi ownership.

My tuppence, fully synthetic 10/40 or a 5/40, used to use shell Helix but as decent as that is,.............now use Millers Nanodrive or Fuch Titan pro S in 5/40 as it's better, you can feel the difference.

I'm with Mark (VDT) fully synthetic all the way, just because it's an old engine doesn't mean it can't benefit from more modern technology.
See this for a decent demonstration.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8