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-   -   Electric to Manual Window Conversion on 1984 Coupe GT (http://www.classic-audi.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=32980)

jameshbond007 20-06-15 06:57 AM

Electric to Manual Window Conversion on 1984 Coupe GT
 
Has anyone ever changed from electric to manually operated windows ? If so, I'd be extremely grateful for some pointers as my old green machine has one non-operational side window with the other intermittent. Replacement electric mechanisms are scarce so I was wondering how I could go about this modification.

quattrostyle 20-06-15 07:18 AM

If you really want to it's as simple as swapping the window mechanisms over and drill a hole in the door card.

msh 20-06-15 12:57 PM

Replacement mechanisms or replacement car? :idea: Even if we would presume that your mechanisms aren't repairable [which isn't true], how do you know that the problem isn't in wiring, for example, broken wires between doors and car?

jameshbond007 09-03-17 09:32 AM

Electric Windows - back on the case .....
 
Back on the case now that she's operational again - electric windows: can anyone out there point me at a pair of re-conditioned control units OR a set of parts to convert them both to manual operation ? Obviously, I'd like to stick to electric if possible.

msh 09-03-17 10:58 AM

What's wrong with your current one? Not working at all? Window cable broken? Plastic parts at the end of cables broken?

Window mechanisms are rather easy to work on, just needs some basic tools, angle grinder and electric drill. As long as those two plastic parts are fine, repair costs are pennies, if at all, if they are broken, then some mechanism has to be cannibalized for parts.

Last year I made one power window mechanism for my mk2 golf from original manual + B3 audi window motor [basically the same thing as should be in golf] - just one, because I'm too lazy to finish my power window conversion :lol:

jameshbond007 12-03-17 02:08 PM

Passenger side is sluggish / intermittent - I try not to open it in case it doesn't close again.

Driver's side doesn't move at all - voltmeter reading dips with button depression so assuming presence of a motor winding but jammed mechanism.

Hanuman 12-03-17 02:31 PM

Electric to Manual Window Conversion on 1984 Coupe GT
 
Bad electrical connections can result in sufficient resistance in the connection that will result in an electrical load without the motor turning.
Damage caused by body shops (one bunch literally chopped through the cables in my quattro to replace a door, and used badly crimped bullet crimps.)

Badly reconnected connectors- some multipin connectors have moisture seals which make pushing the connectors together difficult. Some have removed the seal, thus allowing moisture and corrosion on the pins. Simple Verdigris affecting the connections.

Motor jammed? Again, moisture could affect the internals of the motor. It's far from unheard of, and may simply require opening the motor case, cleaning it all up/servicing.

Cable spool/pulley damaged/cable jumped? The system works on a cable being wound around a loop. There is what looks like a plastic spider as part of the 'gearbox' attached to the motor. The spider can crack with age, causing the mechanism to bind when the motor applies tension.

If you have evidence of an electrical load, then it really is worth looking at the mechanism more closely before abandoning it.

A little pic-https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fcf34a66c9.jpg

Ringmaster 12-03-17 08:55 PM

Yes, could simply be the mechanism.

For what it's worth, try spraying the mechanism with electrical contact cleaner solution.

A good liberal saturation and leave to soak, then see how they perform. Worked for me.:tup:

msh 12-03-17 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jameshbond007 (Post 424080)
Passenger side is sluggish / intermittent - I try not to open it in case it doesn't close again.

Driver's side doesn't move at all - voltmeter reading dips with button depression so assuming presence of a motor winding but jammed mechanism.

Just remove both mechanisms and take them apart. It's a very simple thing - few bolts are holding reductor together, either phillips head bolts, or torx bolts, and two are holding motor casing to the reductor. Inside of the reductor you'll likely found some old grease with consistency of a glue - inside motor, probably some rust. After greasing, putting it together, it will be a bit tricky to put cable and it's roller back, as the cable has to be preloaded [both springs are in compressed state] ; I usually put one side in place and use small wrench to force the other spring in place, the room allows this. If you, upon disassembly/removal find broken white plastic bits that are at the end of springs, or broken cable, then it needs to be repaired.

You have nothing to lose anyway; some stick will keep window in place just as well as broken mechanism... :lol:

jameshbond007 30-06-17 08:45 AM

Many thanks for all of the advice (more than one source) on this subject. I've got the regulators out and am building up the courage to start dismantling (week-end task). Wish me luck ......


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