is THIS a WR block please?
 

http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/43...600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/45...600x600Q85.jpg

there is a small crack in the top left bolt hole and as you can see there is a thread visable because the "hole" has been cut in half

http://inlinethumb04.webshots.com/40...600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/43...600x600Q85.jpg




does this make this block unuseable?

the ONLY number on the block is the 1 starting with 035....

t.i.a

Right Richard, I hope you appreciate this, been out with the torch and got filthy...

Our KV engine block is 034 103 021

Whilst the WR is 035 103 021N... Looking closely at your engine block it 'looks' like it mirrors this 035 103 021N in the photos... ETKA is bit of a PITA, as it carries part numbers of the built up block with pistons etc. Which make it unique to the engine type...

IMHO, you have a WR block....

Either that, or our WR, with original engine number on the block today, as shown at point of delivery new, has the same strange engine type....

Hope this helps Rich...

PS - remember this is the block casting part number, not the 'built up engine type'... So it could potentially be running a different crank/conrods etc...

(It's a WR block mate...;).)...

Thanks mate, I was looking at 2 WR's today and both looked like it has the 2 electrical connection by the oil dipstick tube.

That guy who said it wasnt a WR block after driving to LEEDS had better have a good aliby

.... bar steward!!

regarding the 3rd photo Ian, can it still be used with that bolt hole cracked and the hole half missing?

cheers bud appreciate your help:ihih::tup:

That broken thread is at the front of the block, the bolts there carry relatively low torque, so, IMHO, weld could be built up and re-tapped easily....

4V6 irriterated the same thing, yes the car was damaged in the front end so what ever was mounted to this plate isnt there now!!

what wouldyou price it as for ebay purposes????:tup:

Ah... That's a question too far.... Because, as we sit today, everyone is throwing out WR engines for the new messiah, a 20vT...

This is now,… In the future the shift will be back to the originality, and that will be an expensive commodity…

That block will be worth 5x what it is today in 5 years… But as to what it’s worth now…. No idea…

so the block, pistons, crankshaft, turbo(?) head, etc is definately worthholding on to then in your opinion:idea:

ok

better find a cosy space in the garage cupboards then:ihih:

Tony would be better qualified to confirm this, but IFAIK, the block will take different pistons/conrods/cranks... After all the only 'friction' parts are the piston rings and the crank journals. WR’s were ‘Seriously’ over engineered. This was to allow the homologation of parts.

Is the engine number not on the block ? if it is it should start WR00 then 4 numbers.

JUST AS WELL.... took Archie to 3,000 rpm today:ihih::smilewinkgrin::ihih::finger:

took the RallyRep to 6700rpm today.... Fookin Valves tap-dancing again... They love it!!!!:lol:

:yikes::yikes::yikes:

I must try harder then:lol::lol::lol::lol::tup:

as said to you when I spoke to you yesterday I am off to Knockhill tomorrow so looking forward to a day out with the old bastard:D:D:D

Do u want say there is no engine code on block? :shocked: And what does it change anyway? WR wasn't audi's first 10vt engine so other 10vt engine must have identical block. Just because of code - "I have WR block [and not KG or whatever]"? :)

And about that "originality" and "switch back to 10vt in future" - yes, it will happen - because remaining ur's will be owned by collectionars and what do they need - originality, of course. Not moving exhibit doesn't need power at all :) And car, which is only somethimes driven to somewhere, doesn't need 100 extra hp's as well. The same way remaining A90q's will be turned back to KV's.

P.S. What's the reason for txt's about "invaluable blocks after some years" - because block is from WR or because brittish had scrapped almost all A200 10vt?

If you look at the 4th photo down, you'll see that the top of the dipstick tube points at an oblong pad, approx 4 inches long, right at the top of the block. Get some wet and dry and clean that up. The number that you will uncover will be the engine number, it will be of the format XX123456 (I think that it's 6 numeric, but might be 5). The 2 letters will tell you immediately what kind of engine it's from.

Also, a WR block will have oil squirters on it to cool the underside of the pistons.

If it's not a WR block, then it's worth what you'd get as scrap metal. As a bare block, even if WR, because it's damaged, it's not worth much more.

Here you go Richard, taken especially for you! :)

Engine numbers on that shiny pad by the spanner on the left side of the block. :tup:

thanks 4V6 and Co.... learn something new daily about this block:ihih::lol::lol:

point taken:lol::lol:

.....oh yea so it does!!!!

bloody enigma code more like, what a stupid place to put it... who the f*** would think of looking there 30 years into the future?

Errrr? All 10v i5's have the engine number in this location......

ok ok!!:razz:

wonder if my 20V has a stamp hidden somewhere?
what about a 30v then... where would that be?

They all have the engine number there but the lteers change WR/ MB/ RR /DS/ KV 00**** the letters being the type

I think all old VAG engines have in the same place, only R4 block is shorter :D

so after all this faffing what type is it? :D