1.8 20VT questions
 

1.8 20VT into an Audi B2 got some major questions before I even consider it.

1. Can this engine be paired with a RWD setup which can be applied on a B2?
2. Does anyone know which gearbox combinations work with this for RWD?
3. How well does the B2 accept such mods, from looking at the engine bay theres tonnes of space! Can the UR rear axle just bolt in etc, because getting a propshaft made is not such a big issue. As much as finding a rwd axle etc.
4. I am interested in making this B2 a rwd/awd beast just need some more info, especially on what parts I need from which vehicles.

I have seen this being done in fwd disguise but I am not really interested in doing that, if rwd/awd option is feasible.

I have sourced a low mileage 1.8 20VT engine gearbox loom & ecu. Just need to know what other parts I need. Any info on this would be great.

there was a thread on this on audifans.net but I can't find it.
Questions:

why?

why?

why?

Buy a beemer or Toyota if you want to go drifting

Anything is possible with enough time and money.

Can you fabricate and weld???

If you want to do an "AWD" car, just buy an 80 or 90 quattro in the first place.

Don't mean to be negative, just realistic.

I wanna do a 1.8 20VT conversion in my sport (well, that's the long term plan), but changing the drivetrain is a real pita. Like pimp says, get something like a B2 80/90 quattro and then start to play.

I think over 200++bhp at the front wheels of an 80sport from a 1.8 20VT motor will be a handful enough as it is though if you go down the easier transplant route!

or just do ABF conversion. The cars only weigh 980kg so 160-175bhp should be plenty. Lighter than 1.8T 20V too......

I have the facilities to fabricate and weld it need be. I was hoping there would have been an easy way bolt off, bolt on and transplant some quattro parts into the sport to make it awd, and then pair a 20v turbo to the drivetrain. But if that is going to be too long then I suppose FWD option is not too bad... depending how much work is needed.

I still want to go down the 20v route, I like turbo power. :arf:

So fwd 20v turbo B2, will mounts need to be fabricated from scratch? Or can a collection of bits be bolted togheter?

I am thinking stock front hubs, modified & balanced driveshafts? Or do I have to change the whole front hub assembly as well?

Whilst i am here, what sort of big brake options do I have for the front, and possibly rear disc brake options as well. Can we use the 256 conversion to the B2 as the VW's?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1774571

http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18079

Break out your spanners and bolt it in :tup:

Basil, what are you on about?

Yes, 256mm brakes off an Audi 90. Use GOlf Mk2 16V discs.

You might need to swap the master cylinder over though. Check out www.clubgti.co.uk website for more details.

Rear brakes, drums are supposedly OK, disc calipers seize and don't do that much braking.

you might be able to use rear subframe off a 2WD Audi 90 but you would probably end up with 4x108.

Or if you go larger than 14" wheel, you can use 276 or 280mm brakes I think (though I don't know much about that). I just know that 280mm brakes off a G60 golf fit under 15" G60 steel wheels.

pimpdriver can u tell me why calipers seize in uk? :) Here, in latvia, are bad roads and salt on roads in winters so I presume if calipers on 20 years old audi have some problems, it's ok, it needs to be fixed and that's all. Can u tell me why I can't find "high performance drum brakes - replacement for disc brakes"? :D And how do u think, why VAG only paired drums on rear with weakest of all discs on front? :) Maybe because VAG used only some weak drums? I have seen drums that can put on brake tester braking force as big as 276mm discs or even more - but this was chevy astrovan with HUGE drums :)
And there is also visual aspect as well.

Calipers do seize in the UK. I can't give you the exact technical / chemical reason, but the calipers on the rear of my 100 avant were seized at both MoTs, April 2008 and April 2009. I did 25000 miles in between. And Mk2 Golfs (a common car over here, do you get them in Latvia???) seize too, which is why you get conversions to Mk4 Golf discs.

But you are going to tell me next how everything costs £5 in Latvia to fix, forgetting that you earn less per hour, so it is all relative. If you earnt £300 a day and it cost £5 per hour to get your car fixed, that would be fantastic, but I don't believe you would get paid £300 a day. If you get paid £30 a day, then £5 an hour is a lot RELATIVE to what you get paid.

If this is going off topic, I do apologise, I was trying to be HELPFUL to the guy, may I suggest you "wind your neck in" and do the same???

The topic is about fitting a 20V 1.8 turbo, and improving brakes, not a general theoretical question about why VAG fitted drums on some cars, and discs on others, and why rear VAG calipers seize (maybe it is because the handbrake actuator is in the wrong place and gets spray from the wheels???)

Please be constructive!!!

Yup, the calipers on my old B4 quattro avant (1995) seized up.

B2 FWD and quattro floorpans are totally different, and a quattro drivetrain won't fit. As others have said, make your life a lot easier and start with a quattro, or leave it FWD.

256mm front brakes would still be on the marginal side. 280mm Corrado/Golf G60 front discs would be the way to go, but you'd have to find the later 2-piece Audi 80 front struts to fix the caliper brackets with the correct spacing for 280mm discs, but in 4x100mm PCD (when all B3 Audis are 4x108 IIRC). It might be possible to change the 4x108mm hubs on the later struts to 4x100mm but I don't know. I would talk to a Golf specialist.

Or you coud use B3 Audi 80 front suspension and use Golf G60 280mm discs redrilled to 4x108 (as done on here by 20vcqdriver), and get a rear axle with discs off a 5 cyl Coupe GT or Audi 90 CD and use that, also in 4x108. Then you need to find 15"+ wheels in 4x108.

The block of the 20vT is supposedly almost the same as VW/Audi large 4-cyl engines dating back to the 1970s, so bolting in the engine block is likely to be the simplest thing about this. There are plenty of old Golfs with 20vT conversions, which appears to bear this out.

Lots of interesting replies...

Going to go talk to my friend later on today, he is a VW technican, he has done some mk2 20v swaps. Going to see if he can assist me in the conversion. Will keep you updated.

As said earlier, floor pan is biggest issue. Fitting quattro drive train at rear is possible (see quattro cabs etc) but requires fair bit of restructuring, of rear suspension turrets, boot floor area and transmission tunnel (it's only for the exhaust a fwd). MUCH easier to start with a 4wd unless you're aprticularl;y attachected to the one you have???
As for the engine, I've done 1.8 20v conversions into older stuff, both transverse and longtitudinal, the bell housing patterns are similar enough to fit, the issue you may have is with the flywheel application and the input shaft from the gearbox will fit into the end of the crank. Sometimes swapping the needle bearing in the crank end will surfice, sometimes a small amound of boring out is required.
Getting around the ECU security is easy engough now too. Used to be you needed dash pod, key and ECU but the ecu can now be remapped and the security removed. MUCH easier!!!!!
Good luck with it, should make a good motor. The 1.8T is very torquey and responds well to a remap. If you start with a 210/225 engine (block and head very different to the 150/180bhp) then power of 275bhp very easily attainable with very little outlay and plenty of reliability.

Just to go on a bit more.....
With regards to yur choice of fwd/4wd, either go for full quattro or just stick to fwd set up. Converting to RWD wont give any beniefit unless you move the engine and box back in the vehcile to compensate for the terrible weight distributuion that we all contentd with. quattro makes up for it but not work doing RWD. Unless ofcourse you mount the engine further back, just tucking under the bulkhead so the weight distribution better....... Best to keep it simple though!

Pimpdriver yes, mk2 golf still is very common car here :)
Why do u say "seized @ mot" - it's also discovered by mot and not by driver? :yikes: :D
And this time u are wrong, I'm not going to tell u that all here can be fixed for 5 pounds [which isn't true actually], I'm going to tell u that almost everything can be fixed with owner's two hands :devil: I haven't done this yet because I don't have rear disc brakes :D - but there is enough old audi users/fans who do this by themselves because there isn't anything very complicated. If I remember correctly, repair set for one rear calipper costs 10-15 pounds [maybe in UK cheaper... ...if u can find one :D ] and some tools are needed :) Also eyes to check if that calipper is repairable :D
P.S. In biggest latvian audi forum thread about rear calipper repairing was started by one woman, althought she did this after she get advice from ppls with expirience.


And one thing about 1.8 20vt - there must be aftermarket programmable ECU or there will be some little problems. Let's say, Val [in that one link] uses he's B2 GTE 1.8 20vt quattro with two ignition keys [second is from A4 with imobilizer chip] and he have tachometer which shows 4x less because he's ECU sends impulse to tacho one time per camshaft revolution [1x per two crankshaft revolutions] and not per every spark as on older VAG cars.