Coupe GT front suspension
 

Afternoon all

I'm currently going through the front suspension on my pre-facelift Coupe GT (KE engine). I'm not an expert mechanic, so bear with me....

So far I've removed, stripped, painted and re-bushed the anti-roll bar, drop links, control arms and subframe. I've got new bolts for the subframe and control arms (part no. N90556902), however they are fully threaded, whereas the bolts that were on the car were all part-threaded (I think it's likely at least the subframe ones are original as the bushes were). Does anyone know if fully threaded are ok please? I thought probably yes for the subframe but not sure about for the control arms... Also, the new nuts for the control arms, ball joint bolt etc are the serrated collar type rather than nyloc, they are one of the part numbers given on the Audi catalogue for those... Anyone know if those are ok or can I re-use the nyloc ones?

Normally I wouldn't worry too much, but keen to avoid anything undoing itself or breaking for obvious reasons...

Anything else I should look at doing while I have the subframe off? Gearbox mount?

Many thanks.

Those fully threaded bolts will be fine. I've fitted them to a few of mine now both to the subtame and to the wishbones. The only issue with them is that some of them come with a 18mm hex head - there isn't as much room for the larger tools when refitting and some tool kits might not have a suitable 18mm socket

The shouldered nuts are quite useful when fitting the wishbones to the subframe as the swan neck spanner will slip over a normal nut. These are usually 16mm which verifies they are replacements and not originals when all your torque settings get checked.

Are you fitting new ball joints ? Makes sense to if it's all in bits. I usually replace the ball joint lock plates and pinch bolts at the same time - obviously new locknuts also.

I'd only replace the gearbox mount if it shows signs of cracks / splits.

Cheers Mike, that is helpful. I'm pretty sure the bolt heads were the same size as the originals, however I did notice they were around 1cm longer. Hopefully that doesn't cause any issues.

Yes, I forgot to mention I've got new ball joints and tie rod ends to fit as well. I've got the pinch bolts but not the locking plates, they look ok but I notice Autodoc have got them at a ridiculously cheap price so will probably order those in with my next order from them.

Gearbox mount visually looks ok, but the outer tabs feel a bit dried out. I haven't looked into how much of a job it is. Would it make much difference to the drive if it's hardened/worn out?

Cheers

As I understand it, strictly speaking, you should never re-use nyloc nuts.

Yes, I think Audi/VW spec is to replace every time too. Reusing would probably be OK at a guess but when new nuts are cheap there's no reason to take any risk so I'll use the new serrated collar ones I've got and get some new nyloc ones for the drop links :tup:

If the gearbox mount is worn, it will allow it to move around more. Since it's bolted to the engine the whole assembly will feel looser.

You would notice it most when going off power to accelerating again and during changes

Thanks. I've never driven it other than a very short distance on the driveway as it's not been on the road since 1996. Moving through the gears when it's stationary, it often doesn't want to go into gear but I'm guessing that is more likely to be due to lack of use, hopefully things will ease up once it's been driven a bit.

Can the gearbox mount be changed without removing the subframe, i.e. just removing the one bolt that goes through the subframe and gearbox mount? Or does the tightening sequence mean you have to remove and replace all the bolts again?

Cheers

There's 2 mounts. There's one in the subrame and there's also another which mounts to a bracket.

The one in the subframe is best replaced off the car.

The other one is held on the bracket by a couple of bolts so if you undo the big main bolt, the 2 small bolts should be easy to remove and you'll be able to remove it - gearbox needs to be supported or it won't line up afterwards.

Good info, many thanks.

Sorry, I have another question! I've replaced the wishbone to subframe bushes like-for-like with what was on the car... Pic of these below:
[IMG]https://i.postimg.cc/650KsttP/IMG-20...-201658711.jpg[/IMG]

I've just been looking at the Audi parts catalogue on OEM EPC online and noticed those bushes (part number 811407181) are for 81/82 model years and seem to go with the non-sided wishbones. My car is 84 and has the sided wishbones and drop links, which according to the catalogue seem to go with different bushes with a metal casing on the outside for years 83-87, part number 857407181 (see pic below):
[IMG]https://i.postimg.cc/FzkYWz2w/thumb.jpg[/IMG]

Anyone know if the bushes are interchangeable? I'm confused now, I thought getting the ones that were on the car was the right way to go, but the catalogue seems to say otherwise. I supposed a previous owner could have had the wrong bushes fitted?!

Any help appreciated! Many thanks.

No problems with the questions.

If you've gone to the trouble of fitting them, I'd be inclined to use them although they may not last as long.

Those bushes are slightly softer - they're used on the early 5 cylinder models which also had a different anti roll bar setup

The metal caged bush can also be 8A0 407 181 - they have a slightly larger flange on them.

Thanks Mike, that's really useful. I was hoping you'd say that! Don't fancy taking the bushes out again, it was a bit of a battle and I'd probably ruin the paint job for the second time.

I'm not planning to do a lot of miles in the car when it's finally on the road, so hopefully those bushes will last a few years and I'll eventually replace with the metal cage type.

I keep meaning to get around to posting up the project so far in reader's restos as I've done a fair bit already. Will do it soon!

Thanks again.

Another suspension question!! Next job is to take apart, clean up and paint the front struts. Just looking at spring compressors to buy and wondered if anyone has any advice about the size/type of compressor needed please?

I'm hoping the original Boge shocks are ok but will have a close look at them when they're out. Should I be replacing the strut mounts as a matter of course or just if they look worn? Anything else? I've already got new covers/bump stops.

Cheers!

Good quality spring compressor set will do. If you painted your springs, wrap them in masking tape to prevent damage.
You can check the shocks when out. Press down and they should rise back fairly quickly. If they don't, they are dead.
You should replace the top mounts while in there. You should also replace the top nut. May also need a new slotted nut, bump stop and gaiters depending on condition.
Sometime the strut cap needs replacing as well. :tup:

Thanks Dave, very helpful. I'm wondering about my rear shocks now... I've already had them out but thought the test was for them to give fairly strong but smooth resistance in both directions. They did that, and no sign of any leakage, but definitely didn't rise back of their own accord :confused:

I wouldn't rush to replace them if I was you.
:tup:

The purpose of the shocks is to dampen the action of the spring. If you push the piston in and pull it out and get good resistance both ways it's working. If it's leaking, gurgles while you push or pull or feels weak, it's dead. A good self rebound shows it's working well.
As John says, don't rush to change. Cheap replacements will probably fail sooner than the original Boge.

Absolutely. Many moons ago I replaced the OE suspension on my old GT (with a well known after market manufacturer) and within 5 years the rear shocks were dead. Replacing the shocks highlighted the fact the springs had also gone west. Crashing the car sealed the debate.

Thanks chaps, that is reassuring. My general attitude towards the resto has been to trust in Audi's original over-engineered parts and keep them in place wherever possible! :tup:

Anyone know if it's ok to make a cut in the anti roll bar rubber bush (teardrop shape inner ones which are clamped to the subframe), to get them on?

I made the mistake of installing the new eye bushes in the end of the bar first and now can't get the other ones over them!!

I was thinking of making a cut on the flat side of the rubber bush which goes up against the subframe bracket, rather than the rounded side against the clamp. With a sharp blade rather than a hacksaw so as not to remove any rubber.

If not, any tips on getting then over the already bushed ends, or am I going to have to take one of those out?!!

Cheers

You must have the earlier type bush.

The later ones come with a split in the place you describe to make fitting easier.

Cheers Mike. Fingers crossed should be ok to cut them then :tup:

Had some time to work on the car last week and got the front struts off and apart. I'll be replacing the hubs as one was damaged, and the wheel bearings as well as one in particular had quite a bit of movement in it.

One of the shocks seems ok, but I think the other may have had it - it is extremely stiff (it can only just be moved by hand), it also gurgles/grinds a bit and is leaking slightly.

https://i.postimg.cc/pL2VMfyw/IMG-20...157620-HDR.jpg

Any recommendations/ brands to avoid for the shocks? Thought maybe Sachs/Boge as the originals are Boge. Or TRW, Bilstein, KYB... Suspension is staying original spec and I'm more interested in the car riding as original.

Cheers

I’ve used both KYB and Sachs and rate them both, equally
��

Seconded!

Thanks very much both, very helpful :tup:

KYB are OEM for Subaru and they’re fairly sturdy cars
Sachs are OEM for a lot of German firms, you’ll not go wrong with either

Anyone know the torque settings for the gearbox mount bolt please? The one that goes through the rubber mounting/bush at the gearbox end of the "arm" that links to the subframe mounting point. I ended up replacing the rubber mount in the end as I noticed a split.

Also, I presume it's ok to fully tighten the above and the subframe bolts with the car in the air? I know the wishbone pivot bolts and anti roll bar nuts should be torqued up on the ground.

Cheers!

What engine do you have? Haynes manual gives two settings depending on engine and gearbox fitted.

Cheers Dave, it's the 2,144cc 5 cylinder "KE" engine. 5 speed gearbox, code "HC"

Many thanks

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...153ee74ba7.jpg


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Your gearbox appears to be the 093 version.


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Cheers. 110nm seems a lot, more than the subframe bolts! It is a chunky bolt though, so I'll go for it and keep my fingers crossed!

What size and grade bolt is it?
When I'm not sure I use this chart. Very useful. Saved a few snapped bolts for sure.
http://www.google.co.uk/url?q=https:...H8hWQhESUwV2J5

It's definitely grade 10:9 and pretty sure M12, although will double check. In which case on the chart 110nm should be fine. Chart has been saved, very useful that - cheers :tup:

Front suspension refresh has turned into a complete refurbishment! New shocks, wheel bearings, hubs, splash guards, calipers, all bushes etc.

I've got a questions about the wheel bearings... Does anyone know if the end with the recess/groove on the outer casing of the bearing (see pic) goes to the outer, or inner side of the housing? The car doesn't have ABS, but as there is only a recess on one side of the circumference, I presume they can't just go in either way?

Have asked this on the Facebook page as the website seemed to be down earlier... But I always seem to get much better answers on here, hence posting twice!

Thanks all.

https://i.postimg.cc/DztkqHpq/Screen...012-105831.png

Site has been up and down about 4 times today. Always database errors.

I replied elsewhere but for searching it's better on here. On a B2 the bearing inner race is symmetrical and not stepped so it doesn't matter which way round it goes.

You should have a pair of circlips in your kit. You'll probably only use one of them for the top before you press in the hub as your housing will likely have a stop for the bearing at the bottom.

Cheers Mike, much appreciated! Struts are all back together now ready to go on. Pic below, ignore the masking tape, just trying to not chip the new paint during installation... New gearbox mount, rebushed subframe and tie rod ends also on. Unfortunately the new ball joints I bought over a year ago are the wrong type, so I'll have to fit the old ones for now until I get the correct ones. Tomorrow I'll be fitting the wishbones, anti roll ball and droplinks, struts... Then it'll be time to fit the new calipers etc and see if the all new brake lines I fitted last year spring leaks or not!!

https://i.postimg.cc/B6p0s4hG/IMG-20...-115944567.jpg