I am kind of stuck ?
 

Hi All, need some advice

So, I bought a Coupe B3, 2.3Ng 10V, the cars visual (outside) Interior aswell, is bad condition. BUT I have found most parts, and have a plan for what needs doing! (Will be videos up at some point, as I am going through doing stuff)

Mechanical engine side of this things is where my knowledge is very basic and I have a lot to learn. But I have friends who can help so its not too bad.

So my problem is, I saved up to buy this car, and I want to restore it, and make it my own, as I am massive fan of classic Audi and 5cyl combo. SO to do anything it means, saving up first and then doing stuff.
Having a FWD and not a quattro, is something I am okay with.
Eventually I do want more power out of 2.3NG as I think its just needs a bit more to be more enjoyable, I am not talking like massive gains, as I want to use car as a daily, but something in between 150-170bhp range.
After looking at some older posts (quite hard to find any info on topic though), I am still a bit on "quite not sure its worth it" side, as looking around I cannot seem to find much on these engines in general and probably my lack of knowledge, is not helping either.

So, can someone shed some light on this? What is it I need doing? suggestions of where I could get the parts aswell? Or just any suggestion would be appreciated.

K&N Air filter
Iridium spark plugs
Tune it

:)

is there any companies that does the tuning?

Have you seen this thread?.... http://www.classic-audi.co.uk/forum/...ad.php?t=36332

A friend of mine has a 2.3NG and it's an absolute peach to drive, has low down torque so ideal as use as a daily runner...….it does however have a full stainless exhaust fitted which sounds great, I think it is here that you'll get the greatest enjoyment in listening to the 10v soundtrack!!

Is your car roadworthy at the moment?

:tup:

I will check that out, I am not insured at the moment, as I its taken some time to sort interior out, and I am waiting on H&R coil overs, plus need to refurbish the RIAL bullet rims i bought, should get all that done over next month or two and will start driving it then.

Problem is getting anything out of a 2.3 will cost lots of money. Even getting 150hp would be a 15% power hike.

To put in perspective, my 90 2.6 used to be a 2.2. Someone else spent over £4k getting the engine modified roughly 15 years ago. Back then bits were a lot easier to get hold of and cheaper.

Accept that it will never win any races, make it as cosmetically / mechanically Perfect as you can. Enjoy it for what it is.

There aren’t that many left, they can’t and shouldn’t all be turned into fire breathing monsters, there need to be a few fairly standard ones left to compare to!! Thats my 2p anyway :lol::tup:

Agree with Mellis46.

If after reading that you're still determined, keep it standard but improve how it left the factory is the other way. Factory heads are a compromise
between cost and low manufacturing costs. This leaves plenty of scope for improvement. A bit of port to cylinder head matching and flowing will
give you horse power and torque gains. Doing this you won't ruin fuel consumption, but will improve it as the engine will be more efficient.

Fit new plug leads, iridium plugs use the best oil like Fuch Titan pro S or Millers Nanodrive NT+ and just enjoy. :tup:

http://www.classic-audi.co.uk/forum/...=Reality+check

This might be useful

So after having a read, I can see what people, say, talking about just getting more power aspect, I actually gave it a quick drive around the block today, forgot how good it actually pulls, so I reckon, for a daily use, a new filter, better plugs, and will see if anyone can tune it, and I will be happy, the sound. and looks, is just awesome, and the feel I get when driving one is something I dont get in my dialy MK6 Golf Tsi. So I will deffo be sorting it out, as there is not many left, and value is in my opinion going even on FWD 10v.

Here is a quick video of how it sounds, also if anyone can tell me, as I am a bit worried about that ticking sound? also I am in need of an alternator, as I bought new voltage regulator, and its still not seem to be charging... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVNwXwh35pM
Will post some pictures now as well, of exterior problematic areas.

I used to own the slightly earlier WN 1.9 5 pot and that was bucket and shim tappets, and i'm sure yours is hydraulic tappets,
to me that sounds like your tappets are empty of oil (hydraulic). How long has it sat and how long have you actually run it?
Normally around 10 - 15 minutes of gentle driving fills the tappets if you've already tried to do this.

Some pictures of body and some problematic areas, I am thinking to do a re-spray at very early next year been already quoted £1300, but as u can see, on the windshield corners, it has started to rust a bit, is that really problematic?

Car has been sat for a at least 3 month now, today I had like 2min drive, and started it, just for a video.

Drive it longer it should sort it out.

I'm hoping a certain body man will chip in here, ( ;) ) but my feeling is £1300 won't get you much of a job at all! I've painted cars
albeit 25 plus years ago now and it's all in the prep, and quality products add up. Windscreens got to come out as that rust will
be right under there and you'll not know the extent of the damage until screen is out.

I'll second that. I had exactly the same problem with my 1990 B3 90 20v that I have driven since it was 4 years old. When it was my company car, it had three screens fitted and the last one was done by a chimp who damaged the paintwork at the top of the aperture causing corrosion identical to yours. To their credit, Autoglass replaced the screen under warranty as it had leaked and "went halves" with the corrosion repair and I started a thread in 2017 on the topic with photos during the repair process. Tinypic have now deleted them unfortunately but I can tell you the corrosion extended from the top centre of the aperture to the top of the right A pillar and to halfway down the left A pillar.Big mess! :nonod:

Yeah I kind of figured that would have to happen, if I take the windscreen out, can the same one be fitted back in? I cant remember when, but someone said, they are glued in or something, and the are most likely to break when u take them out!

you know anyone that does tuning?

Bonded in, will be cut out with a cheese wire, it will get buggered up.
My brother did mine a few years back, he has been doing them all his time, he said they were a f pig when new and even more of a f pig now old.

His words, " I'm not doing any other fu&kers you might know with a coupe so don't ask "

YEP! :eek: Mine shattered into a million pieces when the cheese-wire machine was attached.

They are available and not particularly expensive

:)

Hi Duffy , are you referring to windscreens ?
Cheers

Yes I am

It was under £300 for mine

Good to know , my Milkyness is starting to spread ..👍
What about the chrome edging , (as per original windscreen) Did it come with that ?

I bought a new one from eBay for under £20

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121392886424

Ah ok , one that you just stuck on once the windscreen was fitted ?;)

No it goes on before the windscreens fitted

Thanks Duffy

Windscreens - whats put me off is some of the B4s had a window for the vin number, wouldn't look right on a B3, when you order glass for the B3 80/90 do you actually get the right glass? Also the tints, do they match? Maybe I’m overthinking...:halo:

They only stock the screen with the blackout missing for the VIN number, however if you have a good or helpful fitter that can paint this over so it looks like OE.
Most keep the glass paint as it has to be put on some that don't have it when bonding to the car.

That's what I did on mine and it looks fine.

Good to know, make him a brew and all that jazz...!:tup:

And it came with the correct tint for me.
Don’t overthink it!
It’s either what they’ve got or what you’ve got in place

:)